Reviewed by Capt. Mike Schoonveld

 I put a tip in the Basics and Beyond column I write for Great Lakes Angler magazine in a recent issue suggesting carrying pair of muck boots in the tow vehicle to eliminate having to perform a balancing act on the bumper or trailer tongue each time a boat is launched or loaded. That elicited a response from a reader who agreed the boots were a good idea but he’d eliminated his need for them by installing a Drotto Boat Latch system on his trailer. I clicked it up at www. Boat2Trailer. com, http://www.boat2trailer.com, watched the videos posted there and promptly contacted Rob Waterbury at the company about the product.

Long story short, I found myself at the top of a boat ramp soon after with a 3/4″ inch ratchet and wrench, taking the rubber roller off my winch support at the front of my trailer. I reused the same bolt to attach the DBL and snugged it just tight enough to hold it in place.

Then I backed the trailer down the ramp, pulled the boat forward with the winch strap and adjusted the angle of the DBL to match the slope of my bow. Then I continued winching until the latch snapped closed on the bow ring and snugged down the bolt to hold the Drotto to that exact position.

I once tried a similar devise with a similar purpose. I’d drive my boat onto the trailer until the bow loop entered a slot, something would go snap and the boat would be fastened to the winch assembly.   The “earlier version” quickly went on my scrap heap of useless junk. It didn’t hold the boat tight to the front roller, I had to hit the slot perfectly (an inch too far port or starboard wouldn’t cut it) and I could tell from the heft and workmanship, something would break on it – sooner or later – for me, I guessed sooner and at an inconvenient time.

Not so the Drotto. It’s heavy and the metal parts are made of hardened, heavy gauge steel. When loading the boat my approach doesn’t have to be perfect since there’s a vee notch to slide the bow ring a few inches left or right as needed and when the “grabbers” snap closed, the bow is snug on the winch stand.

I have a bunk-type trailer so when launching I can use the lever-action release to un-grab the bow ring while I’m positioned at the top of the ramp. There’s a lever extension included for boaters with roller trailers so the ring can be freed after the boat is backed sufficiently into the water and the lever can be pulled either from a dock or while sitting in the boat.

A video is worth a thousand words so go to the website and watch the short vids posted there. You’ll soon be ready to plunk down $240 to make your launching and loading easier. Leave the muck boots at home.

 

Reviewed by Capt. Mike Schoonveld

            Hard-bodied crankbaits are the go-to lure for most fish, at least some of the time. They only work, however, when they are running true and an out-of-whack crank is a disaster when it’s being trolled.

Some crankbaits almost always need a slight adjustment to the nose ring to get it running perfectly, some hardly ever need a tweak and all of them can be bent or mangled by a strong salmon or walleye during the fight or in the landing net. Top anglers check every body-bait they tie on when it first goes into the lake and after every fish is caught with it.

Tuning is a simple process. If the lure swims or rolls to left, bend the line-tie-eyelet to the right. The concept is easy, doing it is tougher.

Most of the time, a pair of needle nose pliers is the tool of choice and though those skinny tipped pliers are multi-taskers, they aren’t the best tool for the job. The perfect tool is now available from Offshore Tackle – the EZ Crankbait Tuner.

It’s a pliers-like tool with one long and one short end. The short plier pinches against the line-tie, the long plier lays along side the crankbait’s body. It’s made from a super hard plastic strong enough to bend the nose wire, but it’s gentle on the plastic and paint on the lure itself.

As much as I like tools that can perform a variety of tasks, sometimes the right tool for a specific job makes the chore easier, quicker and more precise. The EZ Crankbait Tuner is one of those tools.   The tuner is widely available in tackle stores and on-line. Check them out at http://www.offshoretackle.com.

 

 

   Reviewed by:  Capt. Mike Schoonveld

Sadly, thieves have an easy time of it in many areas where us fishermen park our vehicles and trailers while we are on the lake. Double sadly, we actually make it extra easy, at times. Fishermen are often the only boaters out at some times of the year and we are predictable, leaving at dawn and are not usually coming back until noon or later. Triple sadly, security in many of the parking areas is all but non-existent.

Locks are the simplest precaution we can take. You’ll need at least two and three is better. Put one lock in the latch that holds the trailer’s coupler to the ball hitch. Then lock the receiver insert into the vehicle’s hitch assembly and for one more measure of security, lock the spare tire for the trailer to the spare tire carrier. If you need more security than that, either don’t park there or hire a security guard.

Several companies make locks specifically for these locations, but you buy them “ala carte” – one for the hitch, one for the receiver, etc. Each is keyed differently so you have to carry around a full ring of keys and remember which key fits which lock.

Bolt Lock to the rescue. For about the same price as one of the competing brands, purchase what you need from Bolt Lock – available at many retail outlets around the Great Lakes or on-line at www. boltlock.com.

Why Bolt Lock locks? They don’t come with a key. Instead, insert the ignition key from your tow vehicle into the lock, give the key one twist and the key to lock on your receiver, hitch, spare tire or other device you need to secure is instantly keyed to the pattern on your vehicle key. The same key that secures the vehicle, secures the valuable gear behind it.

Reviewed by: Capt. Mike Schoonveld

            If your boat designer had any saltwater blood in his or her veins, chances are the boat came out of the factory with two or more flush mounted rod holders along the gunwales. My boat has four of them. I’ve never used any of them.

I’ve been on boats in the salt that used them but when the briny-water guys have a big spread out, that means trolling with four lines. Here on the Great Lakes, topping out with four times that many lines isn’t unusual.

In many cases the built-in, flush-with-the-gunwale rod holders have to be removed to install a track system to mount multiple holders and ‘riggers. In my case, I just worked around them.

I’ve now found a use for the pair of rod-slots positioned amidships on my boat. Quick Cleat, LLC makes a number of rope-holding cleats to attach to boats and docks. Instead of tying and untying dock lines, minnow bucket cords, anchor rodes or boat fenders, use a Quick Cleat. Rotate the top of the mechanism until a rope channel opens and lay a line in the channel. Release the mechanism and the top rotates back, securely clamping the rope in the groove. It takes only a second and makes adjusting the length of the line or rope nearly instantaneous.

Quick Cleat produces styles with applications for boats of any size, from inflatables, canoes and kayaks to offshore cruisers. There are a variety mounting systems as well including stick-on, screw or bolt on, as well as clamp on mounts for square or round rails.

The one I sampled simply slid down into my factory-installed, unused, gunwale rod holder. It’s perfect for holding a fender rope when I tie up to a dock. If I need the fender on the other side, slide the Quick Cleat out of the port side and into the starboard side.   I often just leave it in place but it is removable and comes with a plastic storage pouch. www.quick-cleat.com.

Reviewed by: Capt. Mike Schoonveld

          I’m often asked, “Can you see fish on that?” as the people point to the sonar unit on my boat.

My pat answer is “Yes, but if I had to see a fish on the screen to catch it, I’d be in trouble and if I could catch every fish showing on the screen, we’d fill the boat.”

I stand by that statement, but when I get better at using my AXIOM Multi-Function Display (MFD) I may have to change my answer. It will certainly mark more fish in the average trip than will fit in my boat, but it comes much closer to giving me (or any fisherman) the ability to “see a fish, catch a fish.”

The AXIOM is called an MFD because what you see is more than just a sonar, chart or GPS. Think of it as a computer monitor capable of showing screens associated with whatever program the computer is running. You can call up displays from other Raymarine devices, such as radar or autopilot. It will interface with some phone apps, Sirius Radio and with a wifi connection (such as your cell phone’s mobile hotspot) you can watch Netflix or connect to other entertainment. Use it to control your drone! Gearheads may want to connect the MFD to their motor’s computer to monitor engine performance on the display.

I’ll run through a few of the other selling points as quickly as possible. If you like technical jargon like “quad-four processor” and other exacting specs go to http://www.raymarine.com. The website lists enough details, techno-words and numbers with Greek letters attached to keep any geek happy and most fisherman confused. For instance, the AXIOM has CHIRP technology in the main sonar. I don’t understand all I know about CHIRP and I understand more than I need. I do understand when in use, the sonar picture on the screen is better. I see more fish, things on the bottom and other details.

It has two other “real time” sonar modes which, depending on where and how you fish, may be all important or of little importance to you. The way I picture Sidevision is turning a sonar transducer 90 degrees so instead of viewing straight down, it sends and receives pings and echos to the side (or both sides) of the boat. It will show nearby reefs, bridge pilings, rocks on the bottom and fish lurking near these things.

It’s harder to explain Downvision. It’s similar to the regular sonar, except it’s a sort of HD version. Even with CHIRP, if you motor across a sunken tree, a sunken boat or a pile of rubble, each will look like “something” laying on the bottom. With Downvision, the something looks like a tree, boat or rock pile.

Mr. Cool of the four sonar modes is the 3-D vision. The computer brains in the AXIOM uses the information gathered from both the side and downvision sonar returns to create a computer generated three dimensional picture on the screen showing the underwater world you just passed. You’ll see the bottom of the channel, the sunken boat on the bottom, fish suspended above it and the bridge piling the boat hit to cause it to sink.

The unit comes with a Navionics charting chip so when you switch the unit to charting mode, you can set waypoints and use the GPS to navigate to them and back. I’m sure it will do other things I’ve yet to discover. There are multiple choices of overlays so you can customize the screens to your personal needs.

One of the first things I noticed, different from all the other sonar/chart/GPS units I’ve previously used, is I don’t have to take off my polarized glasses or tilt my head to a specific angle to look at the screen and be able to see it. Not only will it see the fish better, I can see the screen better! In my mind that’s the most underrated selling point of this machine.

It’s expensive, but expect many years of use from the unit just as it comes out of the box. Add to that Raymarine offers free software and operating system upgrades so the Axiom you buy today will be nearly similar in power and features to the models they sell three, four or more years from now.

I’m not a trained professional marine electronics installer, but I easily installed my MFD, the transducer and connected it to the boat’s wiring system. Evidently, believing a picture is worth a thousand words, the installation guide is mostly pictorial, the wires and connections are color coded and basically, anyone capable of changing the batteries in a flashlight, will have few problems installing their Axiom.

The above picture shows the Mr. Cool, 3D picture on my 9-inch version. Notice the boat motoring to the upper left and the fish (in blue) I’d passed trailing behind the boat.  It comes in both seven and twelve inch screens depending on space or desire. The latest versions are like this, all touch screen, no knobs.

Reviewed by Capt. Mike Schoonveld

 

The dodgers and flashers I started using decades ago all came outfitted with a curly-cue swivel thing on the end to quickly attach and detach fly leaders. Whether or not they are the perfect answer, millions of fish have been landed using them.

 
Then some of the “newer” rotating flashers (i.e. Spin Doctors, others) showed up with a ball bearing snap swivel with the snap connected to the flasher and the ring end free. Where do you attach the leader? So you have to take it off, push the loop at the end of the leader through and over and then reattach. The next time I want to put that fly on a different attractor I have to unattach it and it has a kink in the loop maybe weakening it, definitely making it harder to attach a second time.

 
Okay, it’s not all that big of a deal, but compared to the curly-cue on the others, it seems cumbersome. Maybe it’s a left brain, right brain thing.

 
When I spotted the Offshore Brand Quick Clip Snaps at a Bass Pro Shops store, either my left brain or right kicked in and I picked up a pack. Both sides of my brain are now equally happy.

 
Use the clips two different ways. I either substitute a Quick Clip for the loop at the end of the trolling fly leader or put a Quick Clip on the ring end of the snap swivel of each Spin Doctor. Available at most Bass Pro Shops retail stores or on-line at http://www.basspro.com.

 

Reviewed by Capt. Mike Schoonveld

 

It’s not often I get a product to sample that is (or can be) simple, functional, useful, and decorative in any combination. It’s called a Reel Grip which, to be more descriptive should be called a reel handle knob grip. Made of some sort of silicone, spongy rubber material, it’s a sleeve that slips tightly over the reel handle knob on most any reel.

 
That’s simple enough. Just order or pick up the one you need, whether it be for a trolling reel, baitcaster, spinning reel or fly reels. (They make great sense on fly reels since for some reason you can buy a $500 fly reel with a 50 cent reel knob.)

 
On fly reels and others, they make a good reel even better by giving the reel cranker a good, non-slip comfortable handle knob to grab. Reel Grips are softer and more textured than even the handles on my reels which come with rubberized knobs. The factory-installed rubber handles have to last the life of the reel. Slip on a Reel Grip and if the RG gets worn out in a season or two, swap it out for a new one. Have a reel with a hard plastic or wood handle? Try a Reel Grip and you’ll never want to crank that reel again without it.

 
Reel Grips come in a wide range of solid colors or multi-colors. Bears fans might like the Orange and Blue ones, Michigan State backers can go with Green and White. Or color code your gear. Put solid blue grips on your downrigger reels, green ones on your diver rigs and cover the handles on lead core reels with red ones.

 
Reel Grips are carried in many tackle shops and big box sporting goods outlets. Or get the specific colors and kinds you need at http://www.reelgrip.com.

Reviewed by Capt. Mike Schoonveld

 

It’s been a long time since I saw something related to fishing that made me scratch my head a bit and wonder, “What’s that for?” When I opened a package of goodies from Brecks Inc. I recognized most of the samples they sent. Brecks sells items under many brand names probably familiar to you. Their Mooselock brand spoon is shaped like a fish. Their Savant spoons come sized and colored perfectly for Great Lakes walleye. They also brand Williams Wablers, a spoon that’s been around almost 100 years. .

 

The “mystery” product is a Lake Clear Wabbler from a brand called Lake Clear. It looks like a wide-bodied spoon with no hook on either end – just empty split rings. There’s no swivel on either end, and no markings or other way to determine if there’s a front end or a rear end, even if I wanted to attach a hook.

 

At a smidge over 3 inches long and about 1 ½ inches wide, the football shaped lure didn’t much look like anything I’ve ever trolled or cast. Before I relegated it to my box of yard sale discards, I did a bit of investigating. The give away was the claim the Wabbler is to be used as an attractor, much the same as putting a dodger or flasher ahead of a squid or trolling fly. The Wabblers are used most often a couple feet up the line from a spoon or body bait.

 

I’ve no doubt some of the allure (some of the time) of a Dipsey Diver is as attributable to it’s being an attractor as much as a tool to pull lures deep. Why else would they come in an array of colors? Why else do you buy an array of colors?

 

I tested the two colors I have (yellow orange and fire tiger) with spoons, spinners and stickbaits about two feet behind the Wabbler. All caught fish. One day in particular, I paired the fire tiger Wabbler with one of the above mentioned Flashabou Aglias in fire tiger and it produced one coho after another all morning long.

 

I’m not saying every lure I’ll be running from now on will have a Wabbler ahead of it, but it’s a trick I’m going to put in my bag of tricks and continue to refine. Check out www. lakeclearwabbler.com

 

Reviewed by Capt. Mike Schoonveld

 

I was skeptical the first time I saw a “spinner” lure. It was probably in my grandpa’s tackle box and since he was mainly a bullhead fisherman, I don’t know why he had it. I knew the concept “big fish eat little fish” so I understood why a minnow-shaped artificial lure would catch fish. I knew bullheads eat worms, so I understood plastic worms. “What in the world swims through the water looking like a spinner? What sort of pea-brained fish would mistake a spinner for something it ought to eat?” I thought.
I still don’t have the answers, but I do know plenty of pea-brained fish have fallen for the spinners attached to the end of my line since then. Plenty of them have been coho and king salmon, steelhead and brown trout. Plenty of times, especially when fishing in dirty water, storm muddled or silty from tributary effluent dirty, I reach into my arsenal of lures and select a spinner and use them to fool the pea-brains swimming there hunting for something (that looks nothing like a spinner) to bite.
Among my favorite spinners are Mepps Aglias and though they’ve accounted for uncounted numbers of fish in their original versions, they’ve gotten better this year. The better is the hook on the end of them is now dressed with mylar tinsel from Flashabou instead of the traditional squirrel tail hair.
For years Mepps claimed nothing was better than squirrel tails for spinner hook dressing. Maybe for most fish, but the Flashabou dressed #5 Aglias I’ve been using this season are outproducing the squirrel tails seven days to Sunday. In the stained water (and because cohos in particular like to bite hot orange lures) the orange blade with orange/black hook dressing has been my top choice. The fire-tiger with fire-tiger(ish) mylar tail isn’t far behind.
I’ve caught a few fish on a double bladed model – one orange, one black blade, but so far, it’s not any better than its single bladed cousin. I suspect, the added noise may make it a better choice for steelhead.
I use them on both downriggers and behind Dipsey Divers. Be sure to employ a good ball bearing swivel. The Aglia Flashabou spinners may not be widely available this summer but you can always order them on-line at www. mepps .com.

 

Reviewed by Capt. Mike Schoonveld

When I hear “Field and Stream”, my thoughts go immediately to Field and Stream magazine, the hunting and fishing monthly I’ve been reading since I learned to read. As a kid growing up in a small Indiana farm town, F&S was the vehicle that transported me to hunting adventures and exotic fishing destinations – at least in my mind.

Now, another thing pops to mind at the mention of Field and Stream. Dick’s Sporting Goods now produces a line of outdoor products labelled Field and Stream.  There’s no direct connection with the magazine, but using Field and Stream products still helps me flash back to youthful dreams.

So it is when I spooled up some reels with the three kinds of fishing line available with the Field and Stream label,  braid, traditional monofilament and fluorocarbon monofilament.

 

I used the braided line as backing on a reel I top-filled with lead core line. I normally choose a bright “hi-vis” colored braided line for this purpose. Field and Stream Angler Braid is only available in a deep dark, almost black, chocolate brown. I actually liked the dark color and found it as easy to see as most of the bright chartreuse or orange colors I usually select. It worked flawlessly in that it has never broke and the normal braid knots I use stayed tied and tight where it was joined to the lead core.

I selected and used 25 pound test F&S Angler Fluorocarbon as the leader material on all my `core, copper and diver sets all summer. Again, it performed flawlessly with no unexplained break-offs or knot failures.
I spooled one of my downrigger reels with 20-pound F&S monofilament for use on staging kings. The mono is only available in clear color and I favor hi-vis but other than that I can’t complain. Many anglers prefer clear mono. Again, flawless performance, no unexplained breaks or knot failures.

If you are at Dick’s Sporting Goods and needing some fishing line, consider Field and Stream Angler Line and expect solid performance. No Dick’s nearby but you’d like a spool of this competitively priced line with the old, familiar name get it on-line at: www. fieldandstreamshop.com.